Further, they do NOT allow you to pass most state inspection just be resetting codes. ELM327 and software from Total Car Diagnostics called TOAD, will show you the current generic and manufacturer specific codes that have been triggered, as well as pending codes.
It WILL reset the codes, INCLUDING the monitor codes, however, you can't make the car pass inspection by just resetting the codes.
All of the, I/M Readiness," monitors MUST re-test and show, "Ready" before you can inspect the vehicle.
Total Car Diagnostics ELM327 USB/Bluetooth/WIFI scanner WILL show I/M Readiness status, however, so you KNOW that he vehicle has re-run all of the required monitor tests AND PASSED them before you waste time trying to get your vehicle inspected only to fail the inspection.
More often than not, when someone is considering purchasing this type of, "Stored Code," scanner, like Total Car Diagnostics ELM327 scantool, they are purchasing it because they have a, "Check Engine," light, (or MIL - Malfunction Indicator Light -same thing, just different terms for it), that they'd like to resolve, and often are addressing this before their vehicle inspection runs out.
Though just resetting the codes will NOT help you pass inspection, it WILL help you to determine if repairs made are going to ALLOW you to pass inspection more quickly.
Here's how:
You read the codes, and PROPERLY DIAGNOSE the cause. After making what you believe to be the corrections needed to resolve the issue that caused the code(s), you use this to reset the ECU. Now, search the internet for your vehicle year, make and model vehicle and the term, "Drive cycle." For example, 2005 Subaru Forrester drive cycle."
What you are looking for in the search results is instruction for driving the vehicle in such a way as to provide all of the operating conditions needed for all of your vehicle's I/M readiness monitor checks to complete their testing and report the status in the shortest time possible.
Every manufacturer creates these, "Drive Cycle," routines so that the factory automotive technicians in the dealerships can make repairs and assure the vehicle's compliance with local emissions laws as quickly as possible.
An example of a possible drive cycle (that I'm just making us as an example), might look like:
"Allow vehicle to completely cool overnight. (All that really matters here is that the engine be stone-cold before beginning the drive cycle on that particular year make and model. Not all vehicles require this first step, or any other step I make up here.
This is just and example:
1.) Start vehicle.
2.) Accelerate slowly to 30 MPH, and maintain speed for 45 seconds.
3.) accelerate slowly to 55 MPH and maintain speed for 30 seconds.
4.) slow to 40 MPH without using the brake or downshifting, and maintain speed for 45 seconds.
5.) Accelerate to 55 mph and maintain speed for 4 minutes.
6.) From 55 mph, come to a complete stop, and place the shift leaver into the "Park" position with your foot off he brake and off the accelerator within 30 seconds.
7.) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute . . . " Etc.
Some drive cycles are fairly involved, and some are very short and simple. None the less, if you can complete the drive cycle without the check engine light coming back on, that's a good sign.
Now, follow the instructions that come with TotalCarDiagnostics ELM327 USB to connect the unit.
You'll have to shut the engine off. (In the industry we call this, "engine off - key out," as this eliminates any confusion about what position the key is in. If the key comes out, you're good) Put he key back in once connected, turn to the RUN position, and check the "I/M Readiness" codes.
If all I/M Readiness indicators are reporting either, "OK," "Pass," or, "N/A" your car will now pass that portion of the state inspection.
If any say they are incomplete, (I think this scanner says, "INC" for those if memory serves), you need to do the drive cycle again to get them to report. Some of the monitors will say, "N/A." That is FINE.
Manufacturers have choices in how to approach emissions compliance on different models, and often several of the monitors do not need to be used, just so long as the ones the manufacturer DID choose to employ do enough testing to ensure compliance with Federal Regulations.
One last tip, and this is a real important one. If you don't have the background to decipher diagnostic codes and interpret the likely causes of them, DON'T FRET!
Let's say your 2010 Ford Whatchamacallit is throwing a P0442 code, as reported by the scanner.
Just search the internet for, "2010 Ford Whatchamacallit P0442 code causes," and you will begin to find all of the information needed to further diagnose the fault, AND are also likely to read the most PROBABLE causes in many cases.
Consider the information you find carefully, as there is not test information needs to pas in order to be posted on the internet! lol
When you have done enough research about the code's appearance on YOUR specific vehicle, you will easily see trends that point to the most LIKELY causes too. From there, you can start researching how to accurately TEST each suspected part to find out if it really IS the cause or not.
Before too long, you should be able to find the REAL cause, and PROVE the part defective for yourself so you are not performing unneeded repairs hoping a, "shot in the dark," will fix whatever is wrong.
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